If you’re a foodie with a penchant for locally sourced, creatively crafted dishes, then this is a must-read. Starling, which opened its doors in August, offers an earthy, ethereal decor and mouth-watering dishes.
Chef Nick Beardshaw, formerly of Kerridge’s in London, has launched his own restaurant in Esher, Surrey, where he showcases his best culinary creations. The menu features Nick’s famous A Moon Shaped Pool, a dish that won him accolades on the BBC’s Great British Menu.
I had the pleasure of dining there on a Sunday afternoon, and I can confidently say: this restaurant is outstanding. My boyfriend, Owen, and I had a delightful time exploring the incredible menu.
We were warmly welcomed by general manager James Shaw, who guided us through the menu and promptly served our drinks. I began with a refreshing peppermint tea, followed by a luxurious Sussex sparkling wine, while Owen opted for a bottle-aged Negroni.
To start, we ordered the steak tartare hash brown with black garlic for £9, and the truffle cheese crumpets for £7 to share. With its irresistible truffle scent, crispy exterior and dense crumpet, we could have devoured an entire plate.
I was taken aback by the hash browns — they were so dense, topped with whipped bone marrow and thinly sliced steak. This was another perfect quick bite before our starters.
The Pigs Head was not a traditional roast hog with an apple in its mouth, but rather a pulled pork dish with a crispy outer layer. The pork was so smooth it was almost creamy, making it another addictive dish.
Naturally, we couldn’t leave without trying A Moon Shaped Pool, which I was most excited about. Without giving too much away, the pearly surface is melted away with a Thai sauce, revealing marinated cucumber and hand-dived Orkney scallops underneath.
The scallops, adorned with Exmoor caviar, were wonderfully spongey and fresh. Despite its intricate and futuristic presentation, this dish also evokes a sense of familiar home comforts.
After enjoying our starters, our main courses arrived. Owen opted for the Himalayan salad aged beef rump served with Yorkshire puddings and horseradish cream, perfectly seasoned with thick, sizzling fat on each slice.
My dish, Creedy Carver duck with neatly dolloped cherry ketchup, arrived as well. We indulged in large roast potatoes, garlic roasted hispi cabbage and cauliflower cheese made with Westcombe cheddar.
The duck melted in the mouth at first bite and was beautifully presented with duck croustillant. The garlic roasted cabbage is an absolute must-try, with a crisp outer layer drizzled in garlic sauce.
For dessert, I had to go for the iconic Balloon Girl dish, a clever interpretation of Banksy’s work. The sweet cheesecake was light and fluffy, complemented by a slightly sour, glossy exterior and a chocolate torte girl silhouette.
There was also an unexpected sparkling surprise, with a fun twist included. I discovered popping candy in the dessert, which really brought it to life.
We also sampled the strawberries and cream choux bun, encased by strawberry and champagne jelly. The jelly was very natural and flavourful, pairing perfectly with the light yet crispy bun, filled with cream and berries.
To round off our meal, we toasted our visit with a ‘Freezer’ Gin Martini, featuring Hampton Court Gin and an olive nestled at the bottom of the glass. This is a sophisticated slow sipper, and was a splendid way to conclude dinner.
The Starling experience was truly special, and I’d argue there’s nowhere else in Surrey quite like it. This unique bistro is not to be overlooked, it makes a fantastic addition to the county’s top dining spots.
To visit Starling, make a reservation via their website here.
